Can you touch it?

For centuries, textiles have operated as a medium of communication, connecting peoples, their histories and value systems from all over the globe, through the wearing of cloth on our bodies, or by creating comfort and identity in the ‘dressing’ of our homes.

We want to contribute to the discussions at OPEN 09 from a textiles perspective  and sensibility. We believe that insight into the emotional, social, cultural and cognitive value of textiles and craft, and especially the communicative potential of our sense of touch, will have much to bring to a creative, digital future. The blog format may not immediately seem sensitive to our topic, as the properties of touch are not easy to convey via an information medium that has grown out of text based communication. But because of this, as much as inspite of it, we want to collect tactile knowledge and accounts of textile experience in whatever form they can be relayed here, in the hope that this challenge will stimulate innovative and relevant approaches to developing themes for this conference. Are there any concerns that a digital future world will promote a disembodied, virtual reality that may radically alter our sense of being in touch? Can differing textile qualities be successfully communicated via digital imagery, or haptic technologies; or be translated  into novel combinations of digital sound and movement data, for example? Will a better understanding of the powerful emotional affect of touch, encourage the textile and fashion industries to explore innovative methods, in response to the growing imperative for recycling and sustainability?

We’d particularly like to connect with people who design, make or sell products or artifacts, where creativity and the sensuality of materials are core values. This includes designers, artists, craftspeople and commercial manfacturers of textiles, and textile retailers on the high street or on the internet. But also furniture, jewellery, ceramics, product designers, who are using traditional, ancient, ‘analogue’ and/or digital processes. Games designers, interaction designers, digital sculptors; haptic researchers; textile historians and curators; Anthropologists, psychologists, phenomenologists, medics, and others who study the senses, materiality or new media. So, please get in touch!


 

 

 

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  • Can't wait! I dearly hope we get one of ALL those different disciplines attending...

    posted by: RICH Socks for Happy People - view / reply

  • Hello - my name's Caroline & I'm a curator at the Harris Museum & Art Gallery in Preston. I look after the costume & textile collection here at the museum so I’m definitely interested in these issues. Unfortunately, because of conservation issues, in the museum context we tend to display textiles behind glass which means that sadly that our visitors can’t experience the tactile qualities of cloth. We try to have fabric samples available so we can address these frustrations and visitors can still touch fabrics to get in idea of how cotton, silk, etc. feel, or how different weaves feel etc., ... but there's lots more we could do besides. I'm really interested to see what discussions are generated in this turtle, and to think about how we might incorporate these ideas into future museum displays.

    posted by: Caroline Alexander - view / reply

  • Hi carolne great to hear from you on the blog! Looking forward to the possibilities of future collaborations- the tangible histories held within museums have so much to offer the future.

    posted by: fiona - view / reply

  • There's a new textile exhibition opening at the Harris Museum & Art Gallery on Saturday 14 November called Embellished: The Art of Fabulous Fabrics. The opening party is this Saturday from 12-4pm and there'll be drinks, guided tours, arty/textile activities suitable for all ages etc. Everyone welcome!

    posted by: caroline - view / reply

Touch Textiles Questions:

  • In this time of dynamic social change and a global digital skills race,  how can we increase the cultural currency of the creative artisan and ‘traditional’ crafts, so that small scale production can be viable and compete against the ‘economies’ of mass manufacture ? (i.e. can we turn a threat into our ally?)
  • Do we need to explore new ways to make more time and space in our working lives, to be creative?
  • Because it’s difficult to talk (or write) about, the emotional value of touch and tactile communication can often be overlooked. How can we lessen the possibility of this?
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Time management: do we get enough time to be creative?

Dynamic change, hundreds of emails everyday, information from all over the globe constantly flashing before our eyes. It all feels so fast, exciting, and absorbing: a full time activity in itself. We try to maintain a healthy balance between keeping in touch with ‘what’s happenning’ and finding time to think for ourselves.  Have we reached a point where taking time out of the digital whirlwind, to think, to make, to be creative…has become a high risk activity?

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  • No! It's as important to allow time for quiet concentration as it is to be up to date and in touch with what's going on.

    posted by: shenna swan - view / reply

  • I think we need to develop new methods as part of a designer's 'tool kit' that can help us to cope with the mass of possible information- we need to learn how to make creative, digital 'sieves', to sift out the nuggets of gold from all the sand !!

    posted by: Fiona - view / reply

  • Depend what you mean by 'creativity' is it incremental progress or "out of the blue" ideas. Creativity to me is radical thought not small stepping stone obvious ideas. Being creative cause statements like "I never new you could do that" or "You never told us you can do that". Get creative!

    posted by: Ken Rigby - view / reply

  • We are looking for creative ideas for a UK Tipontia;

    http://rmh.projectchainsaw.com/102/html//index.html?

    Meshes and textures wanted for Kids in hospital!

    posted by: Ken Rigby - view / reply

  • Meshes of London eye, HP, Nelsons column, blackpool tower, etc.

    posted by: Ken Rigby - view / reply

  • think we are at cross purposes Ken - I just mean what tools can we develop that can aid us to manage so much information? I've learnt to operate within my profession at a time when information was conveyed and experienced in other ways - I can carry on with those for sure - but we also need new methoodologies for the digital age...that can help us to create order out of chaos- thats what I call creativity.

    posted by: Fiona - view / reply

  • I see information being collected as 3D objects even for metaphorical meanings. 2D and text are such hard work to understand these days. Ever tried to understand how a software tool works from a book; it's just impossible.

    posted by: Ken Rigby - view / reply

Hands up: who thinks creativity is taken seriously by UK business?

hands

In your professional experience, is creativity appropriately valued for its worth to an organisation?  Why are designers and creative people often paid less for their work than the managers, lawyers or the accountants? Should the membership of every company board include a creative practitioner? 

 

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  • Creativity can be accepted within a business if it is incubated, or hidden for an agreed time, from areas within a company who do not understand how ideas are conceived. My experience has been that the ideas can very quickly slip from our grasp - the company as a whole can easily turn it into a false reality before it even exists - and use creatives as scape goats when campaigns fail. I was lucky enough to work for a US organisation whose success relied on creative incubation, allowing the creatives to do just that - behind closed doors until the time was appropriate to reveal.
    Essential that the person in charge of the creatives understands the non creative departments' roles, just as they must understand the creatives'.

    posted by: steve.brindle - view / reply

  • Most business people see creativity as a threat, change can be threatening and when you have insecure management this can cause major problems. Only strong leadership and knowledge of the right policies can overcome the inevitable stagnation.

    posted by: Ken Rigby - view / reply

Crafts Council launches new research strategy for 2009 to 2012

The first of its kind produced by the Crafts Council, the new Research Strategy will develop a wide and ambitious programme of research activity over the next three years, helping to fulfil the Crafts Council’s remit to position the UK as the global centre for the making, seeing and collecting of contemporary craft.

“Craft is a growing industry worth over £800 million and contributes to the UK’s reputation as a world leader in creativity.”

This year alone, the research programme will investigate the contribution made by contemporary craft to other sectors of the economy including fashion, film and tourism; at consumer trends influencing the contemporary craft market; and at the transformative impact of craft in community and healthcare settings. Specific planned research projects include Crafting Futures, a craft-specific bolt-on to the Creative Graduates Creative Futures study of graduate career paths in art and design, and a review of the methodology for collating baseline sector impact and profiling data.

In addition, the strategy includes plans for:

  • An online research hub, including online research / policy briefings;
  • Improved support for academic research centres and programmes to engage with the private and public sectors;
  • An annual Crafts Council conference and a UK Craft Research Network (both launching June 2010).

>http://www.craftscouncil.org.uk/about-us/

CRAFTS RESEARCH HUB GOES LIVE

The Crafts Council has launched an online research hub, packed full of craft research links and resources. Drawing together research reports, blogs, conference proceedings and online discussion groups with links to academic research centres and major public sector research agencies, the hub is set to become a significant resource for contemporary craft research in the UK.

The research hub enables the nature and value of contemporary craft to be explored from a range of social, economic and cultural perspectives, invaluable for craft makers, teachers and other sector professionals, as well as students and researchers.

http://www.craftscouncil.org.uk/professional-development/research-and-information/

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Drawing on tactility: a workout for the senses

During their first semester  BA Hons Textiles students at Uclan undertake a series of workshops designed to raise their sensory awareness.

touch exercise- stage 1

The first exercise relates to touch. This workshop involves each participant in an investigation of an unseen, mystery object, while blindfolded. Working in pairs, the non blindfolded, ’sighted’ partner observes, and writes down the descriptive narrative spoken by the ‘touching’ partner, who is asked to memorise the experience as much as possible. (Before the ‘touching’, participants are encouraged to clap and rub hands together to heighten their sensitivity). At the next stage, the object is put away out of sight, the blindfold removed and each student then attempts to convey their touch experience onto paper, from memory, using black and white mark-making, and relevant descriptive words. The drawings and the objects are then compared, and discussed, and some findings proposed. The blindfolds and roles are then swapped over, and the exercise repeated using another mystery object.

touch exercise- stage 3

touch exercise-stage 2

In some instances the blindfolded students instantly recognised the name of the object they were feeling and later were able to draw it as an integrated form. Often however, details were mis represented- possibly because the student was making assumptions and was able to reference a presumed similar object from their visual memory.

touch pix 4

Several students thought they had an idea about what colour the object might have, or gave it a stereotypical ‘right way up’ in their drawing, or in one case, a drawing appeared to relate to the ‘fit’ of the object when it was held in her hand. However, some objects totally mystified students and these stimulated hesitant drawings that were ‘punctuated’ with seperate patches of texture, like sensory maps. We concluded that this could have been because the entirety of the shape and also the name of the object had remained unknown throughout the touching.

Touch has been called ‘the mother of the senses’. It plays a fundamental role in perception and the way we make sense of an object or an environment, but because there are few words that can adequately describe it, we tend to fall back onto using the name of an object, or we convey the experience by comparing it to one from memory, as a metaphor. This lack of language can mean that tactile communication remains tacit and thus goes unacknowledged in many circumstances.

The inadequacy of language can ‘blind’ us to the full potential of our sensory engagement with the world. Its only when we don’t know the name of something that we have an opportunity to really ’see’ it for how, rather than only what, it is.

For more about perception:

Seeing is forgetting the name of the thing one sees. Over thirty years of conversations with Robert Irwin, by Lawrence Weschler.

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  • Very interesting experiment, It would have been interesting to see if anyone had been tempted to smell the object to help them decide what is was.

    posted by: Glennis Hulme - view / reply

  • Students were able to use their sense of smell in the exercise- some did, and in some cases this was helpful. Some touched the object on the skin of their face too. Most of the students said that they found it quite hard to recall the experience from memory- perhaps being able to do this is an ability we can develop through creative practice. Glennis - as a felt maker, do you think that your textile making is directed by your sense of touch?

    posted by: fiona - view / reply

  • Fred Dibnah said if you could bottle the smell of a steam train you could make a fortune!

    posted by: rob rigby - view / reply

  • Hey Ken, probably Fred was right! Our sense of smell is managed by the limbic system, which is the oldest part of the brain- the most instinctual. So some people may conclude that designing for our sense of smell (e.g. the perfume industry) is the Devils work!! :)

    posted by: fiona - view / reply

  • Most definately, especially when manipulating the handmade felt into shape once it has been felted. Making handmade felt is similar to making pastry, you can tell by the consistency (touch) if it's ready for rolling.

    posted by: Glennis Hulme - view / reply

  • Hi, I was one of the students who took part in this experiment, found it very unusual but very interesting and informative. Never done anything like this before but thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

    posted by: celia rayner - view / reply

  • I'm also a student who took part in the experiment, I instantly knew what my object (a fir cone) was, so it's quite interesting to think just how much our mind knows or assumes just through touch. I tried to put what I knew out of my mind and just concentrate on the actual textures I could feel and draw these - quite difficult!

    posted by: Mary Page - view / reply

Touch, movement and interaction

The phenomenologist Merleau-Ponty wrote: “…movement is to touch as lighting is to vision.”

Here are some examples of projects where touch is physical- but in other cases is implied through movement sensitive technology.

Any comments? Can you connect us with more examples?

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  • Hello, I am a student currently studying at UCLAN. I think these art pieces are truly inspiring. From the 'Piano Stairs' work I think the idea of trying to make a mundane part of life fun is fantastic. I know of a company who have developed a 'touch light bar'. Amazing design which I believe has progressed to a pool table where lights fly from the balls that are shot across the table. It seems that companies are now realising the 'connection' people have with touch and the fascination that they have with technology and touch.

    posted by: Beth Lambert - view / reply

  • http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTwcageiJnM

    posted by: Beth Lambert - view / reply

A Personal Uniform: one cloth, worn all over the world. Can that still be called fashion?

from Fabric of Society, candy 2004

Global Denim Project at UCL: dedicated to understanding the phenomenon of global denim – its history, extent, economics, and consequences.

This project “…is based on a very simple question, one that may have a very profound answer. Our research suggests that on any day the majority of the world’s population is wearing just one textile – Denim. We want to know why.”

Denim is “…an example  of the ‘blindingly obvious’, something so taken for granted we fail to appreciate the fact that one particular textile should come to dominate the world when there are so many other choices. Although there is designer denim, most of this expansion has been cheap denim, and given that the dominant style has changed little in over a century, denim’s triumph must be as much despite commerce as because of it.”

The project was initiated by material culture anthropologists Daniel Miller and Sophie Woodward. Daniel is based at the Department of Anthropology, University College London and Sophie is based at the Department of Sociology, University of Manchester. They have argued that the fact that blue jeans are the only garment commonly sold as distressed, that it has become the default choice when people are worried what to wear, that is the world’s most ubiquitous garment and also often the most personal, are no coincidence. It is the combination of these points that help towards an explanation in general terms of how people use denim as part of their struggle to reconcile the universal and intimate aspects of their lives.

See denim research projects from all over the world at:

http://www.ucl.ac.uk/global-denim-project/

see also:

http://www.materialworldblog.com/

Material World is an interactive, online hub for contemporary debates, discussion, thinking and research centred on material and visual culture.

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  • Why are Denim Jeans a staple part of a persons wardrobe?

    Easy to wear and launder.

    Socially accepted on most occasions can be worn casually with a “T”shirt, sweatshirt or casual shirt. For a formal look denim can be worn with a smart formal jacket and accessorized.

    There are sizes to fit everyone from a new born baby to 50 inch waist. Most brand jeans have a vast size range with only one inch difference in each size of jeans in order to get that perfect fit.

    The styling is basically the same which suits everyone, usually with four or five pockets, a selection of leg styles which include skinny, bootleg, straight or flare’s. You have a choice of zip or button fly with waistlines of high rise, low waist or hipsters, the choice is yours.

    “High waist” denim jeans fit so snug they can support your lower back and if you lay flat on the floor to zip up you can hold in those unwanted bulges.

    Denim jeans are made from strong cotton which does give when worn but once washed it shrinks back into shape.

    Jeans have a long life and are sustainable, made from cotton, can be patched or darned, can be cut into shorts for the summer and its distressed look improves with time. They can be personalised with embroidery, patches print or dyes.

    Designers embroider their name or logo on the jeans which say “They’re not just jeans they’re designer jeans £££££”.

    Most fashion retail companies design ranges of clothes for all seasons. However, within the transitional range you will always see an influx of denim. I believe when people aren’t too sure of the fashion they play safe and buy designer jeans to wear knowing they are always accepted and not judged as a statement, unless of course they are expensive designer jeans and the logo is visible.

    If you can add to my list please do so.

    posted by: ghulme - view / reply

  • I agree about the easy care aspect, especially as jeans hardly ever need to be pressed. My other opinion is that they hide a lot of imperfection and can manipulate a figure into a more flattering shape, for both men and women!

    posted by: steve.brindle - view / reply

  • good to hear your experience and understanding of denim and its adaptability, Glennis. Is it possible that when you abstract it, you describe an inspirational brief for the designers of many other types of objects and services too....?

    posted by: fiona - view / reply

Shop till you drop: what are the issues for internet retailing?

Online_Shopping_Cart

You’ve bought that to die for dress on the internet, when it arrives, somehow its just not what you imagined.

The web is a strong information source but often a poor final point of contact, particularly for goods that have qulaities that are difficult to specify online. “Typically consumers use the web to gather information and find other options rather than using it as a primary decision maker.”

Share your views or experiences here:

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  • I've always been wary of purchasing garments online so I can only impart an experience that I lived through concerning my mother. And as for the dress bought, it was THE most important dress: her wedding dress.

    It was impractical with her budget to by a full priced, shop tailored wedding dress of £700 plus so she tried Ebay. Bought from an international online company at a fraction of the cost and personally tailored to her measurements she picked a beautiful corseted ball gown with long flowing train in a soft baby pink (everyone had to wear pink :P)
    She was so excited to be receiving her perfect (and hopefully last!) gown of her life (this was her third wedding and as such, not white). But when it arrived and she pulled it out of the box, her face dropped. The colour was off, fabric roses sewn into the gown looked as if they were just thrown on, the embroidered crystals were non-existent. The dress made her look like a marshmallow! I can't describe how disappointed she was.

    So I could make the argument that internet clothes are ill-fitting and badly represented but she hung in there, and the second time around she struck gold. She picked a different seller and with this gown she looked gorgeous. And she got our bridesmaids dresses from there too, but I don't want to get into them, phnar :P

    But it just goes to show that experiences with online clothes and designers are just as diverse and risky as putting your trust in picking up a frock on the high street.

    I wonder if I could post pictures?

    posted by: mistress domia - view / reply

What can the tactile, sensuality of textiles bring to the future of digital communication?

The Fabric of SocietyTextile practitioners think with their hands, and love to feel the brush of cloth and fibre against their skin. By making ideas, identities, memories or emotions tangible, textiles make them real.

What does touch mean for you?


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  • Again...Emotion, warmth, authenticity...

    But also reassurance, and the ever-so-subtle (unconscious) reminder that really we're all naked!

    posted by: RICH Socks for Happy People - view / reply

  • That we are still real and not playing out a virtual existence in cyberspace, where emotions can become desensitized and detached.

    posted by: peter - view / reply

  • Can a website feel like a favourite pair of jeans?

    posted by: fiona - view / reply

  • Ahh...touch. To live in a world where I couldn’t experience the surface, to handle the material and interact with it – doesn’t really bear thinking about. That is to say this is how I ‘be’.

    The nature of ‘being’ has been investigated by the existentialists in a general sense. However, I see evidence of a textile way of being. I can identify ‘textile thinking’ and it seems to involve the finger tips almost as much as the mind – it is unashamedly embodied. A friend once commented to me that my need to touch in order to understand my world, was a throw back to infancy. Although this could be taken as an insult, it wasn’t. It’s about being real, using a full mind-body way to experience the world and not seeing ourselves as merely our own vocal thoughts. Experience and comunication should be more complex than words.

    Is tactility seen as immature or as a precious way of interacting with the world? Is there a hierarchy of sensory understanding?

    posted by: Angie Jones - view / reply

  • Haptic devices exist to present the fell of a material. I have seen such devices (one at cranwell uni) that does enable the feel of material. Howevr, the temperature has proved to be a problem

    posted by: Ken Rigby - view / reply

  • Toby Breckon@cranfield.ac.uk was the person involved with the haptic for feeling textiles, etc.

    posted by: rob rigby - view / reply

  • Thanks for info Ken, we know of various haptic applications. I wonder how long before haptics become mainstream? What kind of a priority is it in your area for instance?

    posted by: fiona - view / reply

  • Haptics within Virtual Reality Worlds will become very widespread especially for the elderly and disabled. The ability to feel and touch is a very human need. I have seen many devices and the need for a plug and play standard will be necessary.

    posted by: Ken Rigby - view / reply

  • I think people (in many western societies anyow) find touch embarrassing - so tend to avoid talking about it, or doing it!. And an 'intellectual' engagement is considered to have higher status, as Angie suggests, where bodily sensory experience is considered unpredictable and primitive. I read somewhere recently that Americans have been found to be the least touching society in the world! These findings were based on research into social touch - i.e. people touching other people in their social interactions.

    I think that when we create material things, we form them as reflections of aspects of life- i.e. they are directed by personal experience. So the things we make, are manifestions of experience in material form: their qualities are ideas, values, emotions, memories... made tangible. So maybe, the way people interact with, value and care for things/objects, can be interpreted as material metaphors - or models - of how they interact with and value other people. Perhaps these ideas about people, objects and materials are best understood within the traditional crafts?

    posted by: fiona - view / reply

Mind and body: how do the senses absorb digitally mediated information?

Descartes illustration of mind/body dualism

We still know very little about how the senses absorb digitally mediated information: how minds and bodies sift to order it, or how it affects feelings of identity, mood, emotion, memory or desire. And yet, in the UK, teenagers are spending an average of 31 hours a week online.

Currently the majority of these multimedia digital interactions take place behind a sheet of glass, or where fingers touch only the generic tactility of a plastic keyboard, or use the micro dexterity of a mouse.

Will this affect the way their bodies sense and connect with the material world, or with each other?

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  • Almost definitely I'd say! Though we've yet to really see it manifest. One thing for sure is that with regard to human physiological development and history it's virtually unnatural....and yet it's now a massive part of everyday life.

    I've just been struck now at how physical materials (for me at least) move or are experienced at a much slower pace than digital materials - our eyes and the 'something-just-moved-what-does-that-mean' reflex are working overtime with quite a lot of digital media.

    I have no idea if that last sentence is even linked to the first, or the actual blog post for that matter! But it's late, and i've overdone my screen time tonight. Signing off....with many new questions. Thanks!

    posted by: RICH Socks for Happy People - view / reply

  • Websites and other rapid information systems can easily overwhelm. We learn to desensitise but are never completely at ease. When I compare the different experiences of sewing and scrolling through the internet, one is fluid and inspirational – feeling in the right element, whereas the other can make me feel threatened. While it may not be’ flight-or-fight’ it does make me feel anxious. It shouldn’t...at the end of the day I hold the on/off switch at the end of my fingers, if it gets too much I can opt out.
    It makes me think about the saying ‘inspiration comes at the pace of a walking camel’. Maybe it’s not about the digital interface alone, but the speed it works at. Either way, it’s too easy to feel out of one’s depth. Is it simply about how I invested my childhood and the way my brain formed as a result?

    posted by: Angie Jones - view / reply

  • Censoring comments can be self-defeating.

    posted by: Ken Rigby - view / reply